Кокошки-джуджета

https://bg.farmafans.ru/pileta/23449-kokoshki-dzhudzheta.html#i-2

"...

Развъдни характеристики

Грижата за пилетата-джуджета не изисква специални знания и умения. Най-важното:

при размножаването е важно да се поддържа температурата в помещението между 18-23 ° C-

през лятото осигурете достъп до естествена светлина в кокошарника, а през зимата е необходимо допълнително осветление-

осигурете на птицата разходка в пясъчната заграда-

почиствайте пилешката къща своевременно, за да предотвратите появата на инфекциозни заболявания. Почистването трябва да се извършва поне 2 пъти на ден. Слой сено или слама е идеален за спално бельо.-

контролирайте сухотата и добрата вентилация в помещението, като избягвате висока влажност.

Пилетата-джуджета ядат няколко пъти по-малко от обикновените. Важно е да включите в диетата достатъчно количество:

специален фураж-

зърнена смес-

каша-

ситно настъргани зеленчуци-

нарязани плодове-

кореноплодни-

прясна трева, която спомага за подобряване на качеството на яйцата и месото.

Ххх

Пилешки витамини

За да осигурите запасите от домашни птици с джудже през зимата, трябва да сушите тревата през лятото под открита слънчева светлина и да я смилате в брашно. Едно лакомство, направено по този метод, може да се смесва с храна за животни и зърно. Също така през есента и зимата е важно да добавите витаминни комплекси за птици в хранилката или поилката.

Пилето-джудже от която и да е от представените по-горе породи започва да бърза след достигане на 7-месечна възраст. Окончателният процес на формиране на индивидите завършва след като пилето достигне 1 година. Появата на инстинкта на инкубацията се проявява от 2 години. За да се грижите за 6-7 пилета, ще е достатъчен 1 петел. По-голям брой мъжки помага да се намали процентът на оплождане. Само 6-7 яйца могат да бъдат поставени под птицата джудже.

Породите джудже почти винаги имат изразен майчин инстинкт. Пилетата излюпват яйцата сами и се грижат за потомството, отглеждайки и защитавайки малки пилета. Процентът на оцеляване на пилетата е 90-95%.

Важно е! Доста често пилето джудже се засажда в домакинствата, за да изпълнява функциите на кокошка. Например, Bentamki са в състояние да седят в гнездата почти 90 дни. В този случай можете да раждате няколко разплода едновременно за един сезон. Важно предимство е липсата на интерес, чиито пилета трябва да се излюпят.

Предимства и недостатъци на вида

Днес малките кокошки набират все по-голяма популярност. Основните предимства на джудже породите пилета включват:

консумацията на малко количество фураж, което значително спестява финансовите разходи за отглеждане-

качества на добра кокошка, които са присъщи на повечето породи-

малък размер на пилешко месо, което им позволява да се отглеждат в малки помещения-

притежание на спокоен и доста послушен характер.


Недостатъците на развъдната птица включват невъзможността да се съхраняват в студено помещение.

Пилетата-джуджета са доста
обещаващ бизнес, тъй като малкият размер на птицата, яркият й вид и гъвкав характер пленяват съвременните птицевъди. Ето защо такива сортове чистокръвни птици ще придобият популярност през следващите години и ще донесат добра производителност от размножаването им..

Видео "Карликовые куры.Породы кур.":
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opUMgjrMTik

Fb IF YOU GET A LATE START, TRY FAST GROWING VEGETABLES

https://www.facebook.com/298345320302397/posts/2452399168230324/?=mo

IF YOU GET A LATE START, TRY FAST GROWING VEGETABLES

It's the end of March, and some Families have already started their Gardens, and some will start them in the next few weeks. If bad weather happens, or life gets in the way, and you end up getting a late start, here are some fast growing vegetables that you can raise fast, and put on the table. A great list of vegetables that can be planted, grown, and harvested quickly so you can then plant additional vegetables in Spring/Summer.

We need to all be growing Home Gardens, even if just a small one, or just in containers on the patio. “Fast Growing” means 60 days or less to harvest....or great for your Garden.

Vegetables ready in 40 days or less include Loose-Leaf Lettuce, Mustard, Spinach, Radishes, and Chives.

Vegetables ready in 60 days or less include Zucchini, Summer Squash, Cucumbers, Carrots, Broccoli, Peas, Bush Beans, Kale, early Cabbage, Cauliflower, Beets, Turnips, Kohlrabi, Scallions, Collards, and Swiss chard.

Most herbs are Fast Growing, and are ready to harvest in 45-60 days, depending on variety. Basil and Cilantro are two of the fastest growing herbs to try in your garden.

Make sure, once you plant your Heirloom Seeds, that they get a lot of moisture for germination and emergence. We usually soak our Seeds for 4 hours in water before we sow them in the Garden. This softens up some of the harder shells, and it also gets a good amount of moisture into the Seeds, and gears them up for germination.

Once planted, your Seeds and then Seedlings will need 1 - 2 inches of water per week during this time. Your best bet is using a soaker hose, an irrigation method, or you can spray them with a mist early in the mornings. You can also use an Organic Mulch such as compost, grass cuttings, or straw to keep your plants cooler, and hold moisture in the soil.

Кокошки-джуджета

https://bg.farmafans.ru/pileta/23449-kokoshki-dzhudzheta.html#i-2

"Развъждането на джудже разнообразие от пилета се превръща във все по-популярна дейност всяка година. Красиви външни данни, прости функции за грижа, непретенциозност в храната, високо ниво на снасяне на яйца и нежно месо правят тези птици привлекателни за разплод. Необичайни пилета-джуджета могат да бъдат намерени на всеки от континентите."

Y Fb SWEET POTATOES THRIVE IN THE SUMMER HEAT

https://www.facebook.com/298345320302397/posts/2448801308590110/?sfnsn=mo


SWEET POTATOES THRIVE IN THE SUMMER HEAT

Sweet Potatoes are different from your normal Potato, as they love the hot Summer heat. Most Potatoes die off in the Summer heat, but that is when your Sweet Potatoes will thrive. Sweet potato flesh is classified as moist or dry. Moist, deep orange types are sometimes called yams; the most popular varieties for home gardens are moist types, including Centennial and Georgia Jet.

Sweet potatoes are grown worldwide, from tropical regions to temperate climates. This warm-weather crop is remarkably nutritious and versatile. Each fleshy root is rich in vitamins A and C, along with many important minerals. Use them raw, boiled, or baked, in soups, casseroles, desserts, breads, or stir-fries—and don't forget to try some homemade sweet potato fries!

PLANTING
Sweet potatoes will grow in poor soil, but roots may be deformed in heavy clay or long and stringy in sandy soil. To create the perfect environment, build long, wide, 10-inch-high ridges spaced 3½ feet apart. (A 10-foot row will produce 8 to 10 pounds of potatoes.) Work in plenty of organic compost, avoiding nitrogen-rich fertilizers that produce lush vines and stunted tubes. In the North, cover the raised rows with black plastic to keep the soil warm and promote strong growth.

It's best to plant root sprouts, called slips, which are available from nurseries and mail-order suppliers. Or you can grow your own, by saving a few roots from your previous crop or by buying untreated roots (store-bought sweet potatoes are often waxed to prevent sprouting).

About six weeks before it's time to plant sweet potatoes outdoors in your area, place the roots in a box of moist sand, sawdust, or chopped leaves in a warm spot (75 to 80 degrees). Shoots will sprout, and when they reach 6 to 9 inches long, cut them off the root. Remove and dispose of the bottom inch from each slip, as that portion sometimes harbors disease organisms.

Sweet potatoes mature in 90 to 170 days and are extremely frost sensitive. Plant in full sun 3 to 4 weeks after the last frost when the soil has warmed. Make holes 6 inches deep and 12 inches apart. Bury slips up to the top leaves, press the soil down gently but firmly, and water well.

If you're not using black plastic, mulch the vines 2 weeks after planting to smother weeds, conserve moisture, and keep the soil loose for root development. Occasionally lift longer vines to keep them from rooting at the joints, or they will put their energy into forming many undersized tubers at each rooted area rather than ripening the main crop at the base of the plant. Otherwise, handle plants as little as possible to prevent wounds that might be invaded by disease spores.

If the weather is dry, provide 1 inch of water a week until 2 weeks before harvesting, then let the soil dry out a bit. Don't over water, or the plants—which can withstand dry spells better than rainy ones—may rot.

HARVESTING
You can harvest as soon as leaves start to yellow, but the longer a crop is left in the ground, the higher the yield and vitamin content. Once frost blackens the vines, however, tubers can quickly rot.

Use a spading fork to dig tubers on a sunny day when the soil is dry. Remember that tubers can grow a foot or more from the plant, and that any nicks on their tender skins will encourage spoilage. Dry tubers in the sun for several hours, then move them to a well-ventilated spot and keep at 85 to 90 degrees for 10 to 15 days. After they are cured, store at around 55 degrees, with a humidity of 75 to 80 percent. info by Rodales Organic Life

...

Y ФБ A potager garden

https://www.facebook.com/298345320302397/posts/2448019435334964/?sfnsn=mo

Y Fb GROW MICRO-GREENS

YOU CAN GROW MICRO-GREENS

It's the third week of March, and most of you are planning your Spring Gardens, while some have started them already. If you are missing those fresh salads, don't fret, because Micro-greens can be grown indoors anytime of the year? If you like to have fresh salads year round, you can start some fresh Micro-Greens right now inside, and grow them for salads until your Garden starts producing for you. They are very tasty, and researchers from the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the University of Maryland found that leaves from Micro-greens actually have more nutrients than the full sized plants.

FB THINK ABOUT ADDING A FEW STRAW BALES THIS SPRING

https://m.facebook.com/groups/341493812613398/permalink/4971911669571566/?sfnsn=mo&ref=share

Fb, The Seed Guy

"THINK ABOUT ADDING A FEW STRAW BALES THIS SPRING

If your ground is too hard to work, you end up getting a late start, or if you just don't feel like cleaning up your Garden in the Spring, you might want to look into getting a few Straw Bales. If you haven't tried this method, you might want to try it out on at least a part of your Garden. The ability to grow in a smaller space, no digging involved, and much less problems with insect pests is making more Families switch at least part of their Gardens over to Straw Bales. Here is some info on this gardening method from Joel Karsten.

BB Plant these for bees

https://www.facebook.com/298345320302397/posts/2440178066119101/?sfnsn=mo

"BEES ARE VERY IMPORTANT TO OUR GARDENS

I don't know about you, but I didn't see as many Bees this last Spring and Summer. I'm sure some visited us, because the vegetables flowered and fruited, but not as many Bees as before. When you get your Heirloom Seeds this year, please Order a few Herb or Flower varieties to Help Attract, Feed and Save Our Bees. They are so important to us, and every plant helps their survival.

Many of your vegetables won't get pollinated, or grow fruit or produce Seed, without Honey Bees visiting your Garden. What is happening is we are losing a big percentage of our Bee population from pesticides commercial farms are using, and in some places the loss of habitat that they feed from.

Bees are equipped with very tiny hairs on their bodies and legs. When a bee lands on a flower, pollen will stick to these hairs, and then when the bee moves to another flower, the pollen gets transferred pollinating the bloom. This pollination is required for many Garden Vegetables, such as some okra, beans, squash, cucumbers and many more. With out this pollination most vegetables will never set fruit, and that would be bad news for your garden.

The best way to attract bees to your vegetable garden is to create an environment that bees will enjoy and visit. You can accomplish this by doing several things:

1) DON'T USE PESTICIDES-- Most pesticides are not selective. You are killing off the beneficial bugs along with the pests. Try to grow Organic as possible. Companion Plants are great for this.

2) USE MORE NATIVE PLANTS-- Research suggests native plants are four times more attractive to native bees. They are also usually well adapted to your growing conditions and can thrive with minimum attention. In gardens, heirloom varieties of herbs and perennials can also provide good foraging.

3) CHOOSE SEVERAL COLORS OF FLOWERS--Bees have good color vision to help them find flowers and the nectar and pollen. Flower colors that particularly attract bees are blue, purple, violet, white, and yellow.

4) TRY PLANTING FLOWERS IN CLUMPS-- Flowers clustered into clumps of one species will attract more pollinators than individual plants scattered throughout your Garden.

5) HAVE DIVERSITY OF PLANTS THAT FLOWER ALL YEAR--Most bee species feed on a range of plants through their life cycle. By having several plant species flowering at once, and a succession of plants flowering through spring, summer, and fall, you can support a range of bee species that fly at different times of the season.

6) PLANT WHERE BEES WILL VISIT--Bees favor sunny spots over shade and need some shelter from strong winds.

Also, when your Dandelions pop up in Spring all over the yard, please don't mow them right away, or spray them. They are the Bees first real food after a long Winter, and they need them for sustenance until all the other flowers start to bloom.

When you need some great Non GMO Heirloom Seeds for your Garden, please visit our THE SEED GUY website) https://theseedguy. net/15-seed-packages We have 9 of our Heirloom Seed packages on sale now, they are fresh from the New 2021 Harvest, and we still hand count and package our Seed varieties, like the old days, so you get the best germination.

You can also CALL US 7 days a week, and up to 10:00 pm each night, at 918-352-8800 if you would like to Order By Phone.

If you LIKE US on our Facebook page, you will be on our list for more great Gardening Articles, new Heirloom Seed Offers, and healthy Juice Recipes. https://www.facebook.com/theseedguy/ Thank you, and God Bless You and Your Family."

Fb COMPANION PLANT FOR PEST CONTROL

https://www.facebook.com/298345320302397/posts/2439624172841157/?sfnsn=mo


FB The Seed Guy
This is a great Garden layout of Companion Vegetables and Herbs that you can plant together in your Garden to make the most use of space and deter pests. If you want to stay away from harmful synthetic chemicals and pesticides, and grow Organically, the best way to do that is to select plants for your garden that will help control and repel your insect pests. Check out our 9 Heirloom Seed Packages on Sale Now from the New 2021 Harvest https://theseedguy.net/15-seed-packages Great to get your Garden up and running, or to save in the thick silver mylar bag for later. Thank you and God Bless You and Your Family. 🙂

When to plant potatoes – for a bumper crop

https://www.homesandgardens.com/gardens/when-to-plant-potatoes#google_vignette

V What can be better than growing sweet melons home?🍈

https://fb.watch/bCNOQGO8ef/


Credit: Home & Garden - youtube.com/channel/UCbxbwh7MV5YOJ2HMzAu2zDg

Fb SWEET POTATOES LOVE THE SUMMER HEAT

https://www.facebook.com/298345320302397/posts/2433771986759709/?sfnsn=mo

SWEET POTATOES LOVE THE SUMMER HEAT

Sweet Potatoes are different from your normal Potato, as they love the hot Summer heat. Most Potatoes die off in the Summer heat, but that is when your Sweet Potatoes will thrive. Sweet potato flesh is classified as moist or dry. Moist, deep orange types are sometimes called yams; the most popular varieties for home gardens are moist types, including Centennial and Georgia Jet.

Sweet potatoes are grown worldwide, from tropical regions to temperate climates. This warm-weather crop is remarkably nutritious and versatile. Each fleshy root is rich in vitamins A and C, along with many important minerals. Use them raw, boiled, or baked, in soups, casseroles, desserts, breads, or stir-fries—and don't forget to try some homemade sweet potato fries!

PLANTING
Sweet potatoes will grow in poor soil, but roots may be deformed in heavy clay or long and stringy in sandy soil. To create the perfect environment, build long, wide, 10-inch-high ridges spaced 3½ feet apart. (A 10-foot row will produce 8 to 10 pounds of potatoes.) Work in plenty of organic compost, avoiding nitrogen-rich fertilizers that produce lush vines and stunted tubes. In the North, cover the raised rows with black plastic to keep the soil warm and promote strong growth.

It's best to plant root sprouts, called slips, which are available from nurseries and mail-order suppliers. Or you can grow your own, by saving a few roots from your previous crop or by buying untreated roots (store-bought sweet potatoes are often waxed to prevent sprouting).

About six weeks before it's time to plant sweet potatoes outdoors in your area, place the roots in a box of moist sand, sawdust, or chopped leaves in a warm spot (75 to 80 degrees). Shoots will sprout, and when they reach 6 to 9 inches long, cut them off the root. Remove and dispose of the bottom inch from each slip, as that portion sometimes harbors disease organisms.

Sweet potatoes mature in 90 to 170 days and are extremely frost sensitive. Plant in full sun 3 to 4 weeks after the last frost when the soil has warmed. Make holes 6 inches deep and 12 inches apart. Bury slips up to the top leaves, press the soil down gently but firmly, and water well.

If you're not using black plastic, mulch the vines 2 weeks after planting to smother weeds, conserve moisture, and keep the soil loose for root development. Occasionally lift longer vines to keep them from rooting at the joints, or they will put their energy into forming many undersized tubers at each rooted area rather than ripening the main crop at the base of the plant. Otherwise, handle plants as little as possible to prevent wounds that might be invaded by disease spores.

If the weather is dry, provide 1 inch of water a week until 2 weeks before harvesting, then let the soil dry out a bit. Don't over water, or the plants—which can withstand dry spells better than rainy ones—may rot.

HARVESTING
You can harvest as soon as leaves start to yellow, but the longer a crop is left in the ground, the higher the yield and vitamin content. Once frost blackens the vines, however, tubers can quickly rot.

Use a spading fork to dig tubers on a sunny day when the soil is dry. Remember that tubers can grow a foot or more from the plant, and that any nicks on their tender skins will encourage spoilage. Dry tubers in the sun for several hours, then move them to a well-ventilated spot and keep at 85 to 90 degrees for 10 to 15 days. After they are cured, store at around 55 degrees, with a humidity of 75 to 80 percent. info by Rodales Organic Life

Please visit our THE SEED GUY website when you get the chance. We have great pricing on our 9 Non GMO Heirloom Seed Packages --) https://theseedguy.net/15-seed-packages and we still hand count and package our Seed varieties, like the old days, so you get the best germination. Our Heirloom Seed varieties are from the New 2021 Harvest. We also have All of our Individual Heirloom Seed varieties in Stock.

You can also CALL US 7 days a week, and up to 10:00 pm each night, at 918-352-8800 if you would like to Order By Phone.

If you LIKE US on our Facebook page, you will be on our list for more great Gardening Articles, new Heirloom Seed Offers, and healthy Juice Recipes. https://www.facebook.com/theseedguy Thank you, and God Bless You and Your Family.

FB STORING YOUR FRESH PRODUCE FOR MONTHS . Root cellar

https://www.facebook.com/298345320302397/posts/2427881157348792/?sfnsn=mo

STORING YOUR FRESH PRODUCE FOR MONTHS .
Root cellar How To

Have you ever wondered how our ancestors preserved a whole winter season worth of frost-intolerant produce? Canning is a useful method, though a large harvest can easily turn it into a seemingly impossible task. The solution many generations before us turned to was building a root cellar.

Although many cannot build their own old-world root cellars due to rentals, adequate space, or urban environments; a little common sense and wisdom of temperature and humidity guidelines will allow anybody to whip together an ideal means of prolonging produce-life through the winter.

A conventional root cellar, which essentially is a room buried in a hillside or underground, meets only a handful of criteria.
Insulation: The earth is a wonderful insulator. A typical old-world root cellar was literally buried on all sides except the entrance, utilizing the natural insulating properties of the soil.

Ventilation: It is important that your make-shift root cellar can breathe. Warm stale air needs to float out of the top of your chamber as fresh cooler air makes its way through the bottom. This is important to keep humidity levels under control in order to prevent the rot if moisture-sensitive vegetables such as squashes.

Darkness: Light accelerates the decomposition of fruits and veggies. An ideal means of storage incorporates complete darkness.

Consider what you may have on hand if you would like to construct a practical yet permanent root cellar:

Burying an insulated plastic or metal trash can with a tight lid is a popular option. Others have gone to the trouble of recycling an entire broken refrigerator by submerging it in a hillside. Another option is to frame off a corner of your basement with a window or vent. A more conservative approach is to sink a large cooler into the ground. If one of these avenues are chosen make sure you are ventilating with a hose or pipe.

A blast valve or similar device may be incorporated to prevent below freezing temperatures from entering your storage compartment.

My personal favorite involves little more than a pile of straw, hay, leaves, or moss and a minimal amount of elbow grease. It is most effective with potatoes (Read on).

As a rule of thumb make sure not to wash any produce prior to storing. This will greatly reduce its ability to keep. Instead provide enough drying time for exterior dirty to dehydrate, then brush off any large clumps.

APPLES can be a dangerous food to store with other produce. The idiom one rotten apple spoils the barrel is spot on. As apples age they release ethylene gas which causes other produce to rot too. It’s a wise practicesy to isolate them in shallow containers with lids. They keep best in 80-90% relative humidity and prefer temperatures of 32-40 degrees Fahrenheit. Check on them often and remove any signs of rot.

BEETS prefer the same 32-40 degree temperature range but can withstand a bit more humidity. Outdoor storage is an easy and effective method to practice. Before hard frosts begin simply hoe dirt over the protruding shoulders keeping the foliage exposed. As winter begins mulch over the rows with up to a foot (more for colder climates, less for warmer) of leaves, straw, or hay.

This method may be applied to carrots, parsnips, turnips, celery, rutabagas, cabbages, leeks, kale, and spinach with some success as well. In regards to flavor, the longer you can keep cold tolerant produce in the ground, the better. Cool fall temperatures actually sweeten many vegetables such as beets by literally increasing the presence of sugar.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS are somewhat frost hardy and can be left in the garden until late fall. They may be kept in a root cellar for some time however a lack of moisture will shorten their lifespan. Like beets they prefer a temperature range of 32-40 degrees and high relative humidity of 90-95%.

CABBAGE can withstand light frost when it is young and moderately severe frost when mature. Some varieties are briefly tolerant to temperatures as low as 20 degrees. The aforementioned method of mulching beets can be employed here. Cabbage prefers cold temperatures of 32 to 40 degrees and high moisture of about 80-95% relative humidity making it a good root cellar candidate. Either cut off the head or pull out the entire plant (roots included). If the roots are left on it may last a bit longer in a cellar, however if the stump is left in the ground a smaller leafy cabbage will emerge the following season.

CARROTS can be kept in the garden under mulch just like beets. Remember to cover the shoulders with dirt. They prefer temperatures of 32-40 degrees and relative humidity of 90-95% in a root cellar. If storing in a cellar, harvest before the soil freezes, cut the stems close to the carrot, and store in a bucket of leaves or sawdust with a loose lid.

CAULIFLOWER and Celery prefer cold temperatures of 32-40 degrees Fahrenheit and very moist relative humidity of 90-95%.

CELERIAC is one of the best keeping vegetables during the winter months. Trim off the longer roots making sure not to cut too close to the meat. Store it in damp sawdust, sand, or moss at an ideal temperature range of 32-40 degrees and a very moist relative humidity of 90-95%.

DRY BEANS can be harvested after pods are nearly dried out while still attached to the vine. Spread the pods on newspaper for a week or two until completely dry. A productive trick to separate the beans from the pods is to fill a bag and beat it with a stick. When a hole is cut in the bottom corner the beans will fall out pod-free. Dry beans store well in temperatures between 32-50 degrees though they can withstand freezing temperatures. They are less moisture tolerant at an ideal range of 60-70% relative humidity. Store in dry containers with tight lids.

GARLIC needs to be be air dried in a warm arid area for 2-3 weeks. Remove the roots and store at an ideal 32-50 degrees with 60-70% relative humidity and good airflow.

LEEKS come in frost hardy varieties which should be utilized if growing for storage. They can withstand a bit of snow and the mulching process may be used up until the ground freezes. Harvest with some roots still attached and store at an ideal 32-40 degrees upright, preferably in wet sand. Though leeks prefer a high relative humidity of 90-95% take care not to wet the leaves during storage.

ONIONS require curing until the necks are quite tight before storing. To cure spread them in a dry area with sufficient airflow, or hang them upside down. Ideal storage temperatures range from 32-50 degrees with a relative humidity of 60-70%. Make sure they are stored in an breathable container such as crates or mesh bags.

PARSNIPS store well in uncovered ground until a solid freeze at which point they should be mulched. The frost improves their flavor for a succulent spring harvest. Store harvested parsnips in damp sawdust at an ideal 32-40 degrees and a high relative humidity of 90-95%.

POTATOES should be cured in a dark place for 1-2 weeks at 45-60 degrees. After this they prefer cold temperatures of 32-40 degrees and moist relative humidity of 80-90%. A great means of outdoor storage is piling an insulating material such as straw or hay on top of unused winter garden space with a few inches of dirt on top. Make sure to keep a ventilation hole, clear of dirt, on one side of the pile and a drainage ditch around the perimeter equipped with a small runoff canal.

Throughout the winter hungry gardeners can reach through the ventilation hole and fish out the produce. If you have a tarp on hand covering the top of the pile, but not the ventilation hole, will prevent your storage mound from eroding away. If many potatoes need storing and more than one pile is not an option layer the pile with 4-6 inches of insulating medium, followed by a single layer of potatoes, followed by 4 inches of soil. Repeat the layering process.

PUMPKINS should be cured like squash (see below) with the stem left attached and stored around 50-55 degrees. Relative humidity should fall between 60-75%

SWEET POTATOES are able to be preserved all the way until spring if properly cured and stored. To cure, let air-dry in a warm humid environment of 80-85 degrees and 90% relative humidity for 10-14 days. This will toughen the skin and improve the flavor. Sweet Potatoes store best in an unheated room of about 50-60 degrees with a moderate relative humidity of 60-70% taking great care not to let them drop below 50 degrees.

TURNIPS should be harvested before heavy frosts, tops removed, and stored as you would carrots in a moist insulator such as sawdust, moss, or sand.

WINTER SQUASH should be harvested before a hard frost when the skin is tough enough to prevent penetration from a moderately pressed thumb nail. Flavor is best when the seeds are given a chance to fully develop. Make sure to leave the stem on the fruit and cure for about 10 days at 75-85 degrees, ideally. Store them in a moderately dry and warm spot where the temperature doesn’t drop below 50 and preferably stays below 60 degrees. The best relative humidity for storage falls between 60-70%. Great information by Real Farmacy

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